After learning to sew in middle and high school and studying fashion design at Thomas Jefferson University, Itohan Asemota learned the ins and outs of apparel product development. Working with regional brands such as Grant Blvd, Asemota identified a growing need in this sector: independent fashion houses had trouble finding manufacturers that would work with them when they wanted a small run of items produced.
“Large manufacturers often require minimums that a lot of small startups can’t reach,” Asemota says. “They might have a minimum of 300 pieces, but I realized I could make 20 or 30 tops for them.”
This was the jumping off point for HNI Collective, Asemota’s fashion service agency, founded in January 2024. Through HNI, she brings her expertise in product development to clothing businesses, helping with small batch production and fabric and material sourcing. In addition to being an extra set of (very skilled) hands, Asemota also offers plus-sized fit assistance to brands, ensuring that their collections are actually accessible.
HNI Collective was a way for me to help size inclusivity be on the forefront of what sustainable fashion can look like.”
— Itohan Asemota, HNI Collective
“As someone who is plus-sized, I understand how frustrating it is to find a ‘size-inclusive’ brand, then look at their size chart and not see your size,” she says. “HNI Collective was a way for me to help size inclusivity be on the forefront of what sustainable fashion can look like.”
To help folks into better fitting, longer wearing threads, Asemota offers mending and alteration services in her Germantown studio.
“My ethos is that sustainable clothing should be for all bodies,” she explains. “Sustainability isn’t throwing out your whole wardrobe and replacing it with organic cotton. It’s about keeping the things you love as long as possible. Personal style tells your story through clothes, and the best way to do that is to make your clothes last.”
Last year, Asemota began bringing her sewing machine to events like Green Philly EcoFair and Philly FatCon and doing mending and alteration pop-ups. She loves seeing in real time what a powerful difference her alterations make for people, especially those who wear bigger sizes.
“A lot of my friends who are bigger tell me how influential it is to be able to bring something in [to me] and have it actually fit them,” she says. “The world makes you feel like if something doesn’t fit you right, it’s your problem, when actually it’s the clothing brands’ problem.”
Asemota has emerged as a leader in the burgeoning conscious and fat fashion community in Philly. In January, she co-organized a plus-sized clothing swap at PhilaMOCA that attracted more than 100 attendees. In February, she sat on a virtual “Decoding Plus-Size Fashion” panel organized by Phoria, a plus-size and gender-expansive fashion platform.
Asemota is quick to note that while she is proud of the work she’s doing as both an entrepreneur and activist, she’s one part of a dynamic, growing movement.
“HNI Collective is a small piece of a larger story — I’m part of a huge demographic of people who are also doing the work.
